很多人说西安除了兵马俑就没什么可做了。
‘So, I’ve heard there’s nothing to do in Xi’an apart from the Terracotta Warriors…’
我听说,
真的这样吗？当然不是啦！西安不仅仅是一座世界有名的历史古城，更重要的是它是一座值得探索的有趣城市。许多喜欢探险的背包客会穿梭在城市的各个角落，找到那些有趣的店家，一探究竟。同时，一个个趣味十足的店铺也在城市中慢慢发芽，有潮酷的咖啡馆、鸡尾酒廊和酒店。总之，西安每天都在发生新鲜事，快来登上我们的城市列车，和我们一起探索西安吧。
We couldn’t, quite frankly, disagree more! Not only is the city steeped in some serious history but it’s also packed with fabulously quirky corners that adventurous travelers will delight in seeking out. Creative locals are upping their game too, opening funky cafes, cocktail bars and hotels that we couldn’t have even conceived of a couple of years back. All in all, it feels like Xi’an’s having something of a moment, so now is the time to uncover it’s secrets…
隐藏的清真寺
Hidden Mosques
也许，你已经去过著名的大清真寺，但穆斯林区的后街却有很多其他小清真寺的身影，它们气氛和宁静令人惊叹。大学习清真寺位于同一条小巷上，是一个很好的例子，装饰得非常华丽。这些地方是非常活跃的礼拜场所，不是旅游景点，但根据我们的经验，守卫非常欢迎有礼貌的小团体前来。记住要穿得端庄，遵循指导方针，所以祈祷厅通常是不允许游客进入的。
You may have already taken in the well-known Great Mosque but the backstreets of the Muslim Quarter are home to other smaller mosques that are fantastically atmospheric and peaceful. The Daxuexi Mosque, located on a lane of the same name, is a good example and is wonderfully ornate. These are very much active places of worship, not tourist attractions, but in our experience, the custodians are very welcoming to small groups that approach respectfully. Remember to dress modestly and follow the guidelines as the prayer halls are usually off-limits to visitors.
大学习清真寺：莲湖区大学习巷94号
Daxuexi Mosque:94 Daxuexi Alley, Lianhu District.
莲湖公园&旱冰场
Lianhu Park & Crazy Roller
充满生机的莲湖公园是一个典型的中国式公园：广场舞大妈、业余萨克斯手、街头书法家等。但它的招牌是一个80年代风格的滚轴溜冰场，在那里迪斯科音乐的喧闹声和一群穿着亮溜冰鞋的当地人每晚都在展示自己的青春洋溢。如果你也想成为其中一员，那就系上一对带子，参加到娱乐活动中来，或者只是坐下来，观看整个镇上最值得观商的地方。
Lively Lianhu Gongyuan has all the goodness of your typical Chinese park: dancing aunties, amateur saxophonists, street calligraphers and the like. But its trump card is a no-irony-intended 1980s style roller rink where disco music blares and gangs of locals in lit-up skates strut their stuff on a nightly basis. Strap on a pair and join the fun, if you dare, or just sit back and indulge in what is almost certainly the best people-watching spot in town.
健乐滑轮体验中心：莲湖区莲湖路18号
Crazy Roller：18 Lianhu Road, Lianhu District (inside the northwest corner of Lianhu Park).
汉阳陵 Han Yang Mausoleum
这座优秀的博物馆对很多人来说都是一个真正的惊喜，它与附近西安机场的结合更是一场过去与现在的交流。这座陵墓属于汉代的皇帝和王后，它大约是在兵马俑之后200年建造的。参观者可以通过玻璃地板直接观察到这里的二十多个墓穴。每个墓穴中都有数百个精心制作的微型陶俑和其他按照当时风俗给皇帝陪葬的物品。
This excellent museum is a real surprise to many people and makes most sense combined with an arrival or departure at nearby Xi’an Airport. This is the mausoleum of Emperor Jing and Empress Wang of the Han Dynasty and was created around two hundred years after the Terracotta Warriors. Visitors can observe over twenty of the burial pits here directly through the glass floors, each contains hundreds of beautifully crafted miniature terracotta figurines and other items that were buried with the emperor as per the customs of the time.
汉阳陵博物馆：咸阳市渭城机场快线东段
Han Yang Ling Museum: Airport Express East Section, Weicheng, Xianyang.
后街BiangBiang面
Back Alley Noodle
虽然西安的招牌菜到处可以吃到，但北林博物馆附近的爱骅裤带面馆的滋味依旧让人回味无穷。在那里可以一直品尝到厚厚的、新鲜制作的，有嚼劲的面条。老班经常淘气地和食客们开玩笑，而他的妻子则用大金属碗盛着美味的面条给客人。高峰时段的超员座位就安排在邻近的棚屋里。这个继承了传统的小店将会一直呈现最美味的食物给大家。
Xi’an’s signature dish can be eaten all over the city, but we favor tiny Ai Hua Trouser Belt Noodles near Beilin Museum where the thwack of these thick, chewy strips of dough is freshly made to order can be heard all day. The roguish owner banters with diners whilst his wife delivers the delicious noodles in large metal bowls. Overspill seating during rush hours is arranged in a neighboring shed. Proper old school and all the better for it!
爱骅裤带面馆：碑林区安居巷20号Ai Hua Trouser Belt Noodles: 20 Anju Lane, Beilin District. Tel (+86) 139 9188 9513.
广仁寺 Guangren Temple
这所陕西省唯一的藏传佛教寺庙静静地坐落在城墙的西北角。不像西安的其他一些寺庙，这里没有不会受到人群的干扰。轻松的氛围和美丽的景观让每一个骑自行车的旅人在这个宏伟的寺庙前驻足。同时，这里也是素食者的天堂，他们可以在这附近找到一些最好的无肉饮食选择。
The only Tibetan Buddhist Temple in Shaanxi Province lies quietly in the far, north-western corner of the City Wall where it remains (unlike some of Xi’an’s other temples) untroubled by crowds. The relaxed vibes and lovely landscaping make for a great stopover during an extended bike tour along the wall. Vegetarians will find some of the best meat-free dining options near here too.
广仁寺：西安市莲湖区西北一路152号
Guangren Temple: 152 Xibei 1st Road, Lianhu District
陕拾叁冰饼糖
Shaanxi Thirteen Ice Cream
每一次来到穆斯林区，我们绝对不会空手离开，一定要在这里挖一两勺子冰激凌走。陕拾叁冰饼糖提供的手工冰激凌由当地原料制成，具有独特的风味，如老豆腐或黑醋口味。工作人员会给你小样品尝，直到你找到你喜爱的口味，但根据我们的经验，他们的风味组合很到位，而且远没有听起来那么可怕。他们也有一家分店在威斯汀酒店。
We quite literally never leave the Muslim Quarter without grabbing a scoop or two here. The Shaanxi Thirteen gang serve up artisanal ice cream made from locally sourced ingredients featuring unique flavors like Old Tofu or Black Vinegar. The staff will give you a taster before you commit, but in our experience, their flavor combos are spot on, and far less scary than they sound! There’s a branch in the Westin Hotel too.
陕拾叁冰饼糖（钟楼店): 莲湖区北院门270号
Shaanxi Thirteen (Bell Tower Branch): 270 Beiyuanmen, Lianhu District
电话 Tel：(+86) 29 872 6513.
妙手回春
The Medicine Shop Speakeasy
当地人通常喜欢喝啤酒而不是鸡尾酒，但即使地球上吃盐最多的西安，也不能不受现代人魅力的影响。推开一家看起来像是的中药店的大门，你会发现自己置身于妙手回春的威士忌酒吧的宜人环境中，请自己喝一杯城里最好的混合饮料吧。
Locals generally prefer beer over cocktails, but even salt-of-the-earth Xi’an is not immune to the charms of the modern speakeasy. Push through what appears to be (wink wink) a Chinese medicine store to find yourself in the welcoming environs of whiskey bar The Cirque, and treat yourself to one of the best-mixed drinks in town.
威士忌酒吧妙手回春：陕西省西安市雁塔区寒窑路
The Cirque：Corner of Hanyao Road and Xinkaimen South Road, Qujiang District.
电话 Tel: (+86) 153 1992 5262.
东仓门早市
The Dongcangmen ‘Early Market’
这座位于城墙脚下的极具魅力的市场从早上6点开始就迫不及待地要开始了，它成为了早起的人一个很好的选择，可以在早市上品尝一些当地风味。从狭窄的街道上蜿蜒而过，这里的居民可以选择大量新鲜的当地农产品，同时也可以吃到街边小贩出售的新鲜烘焙的早餐食品。
This charismatic market at the foot of the City Wall is raring to go from 6am, making it a great option for early risers that want to see – and taste – some local flavor. Winding its way through narrow streets than contain homes, mosques, kindergartens and more, this is where residents come to pick from a vast array of fresh local produce whilst snacking on freshly baked breakfast goodies sold by street-side hawkers.
东仓门早市：从东仓门和城墙交界处开始，离建国门不远
Dongcangmen Early Market：starts at the intersection of Dongcangmen and the City Wall, not far from the Jianguomen Gate.
醉长安
Zui Chang’an
这家迷人的小餐馆就藏在离书院门市场不远的一条狭窄的小巷里。在外面的院子里找个座位，点一份“暴风雪”：这里几乎所有的东西都很好吃，但是蘸着“墨水酱”的可食用漆刷是一道有趣的开胃菜（也是一个很棒的摄影作品）。不接受预订，所以您可能需要在高峰时间等待，但这非常值得，相信我们。
This charming little eatery is hidden in plain sight down a narrow alleyway just off the Shuyuanmen Market area. Grab a seat in the outside courtyard and order up a storm: pretty much everything is tasty here, but the edible paintbrushes with dipping ‘ink sauce’ are a fun appetizer (and a great photo op). No reservations accepted, so you may need to wait at peak times, but it’s very much worth it, just trust us.
醉长安 （南门总店)：碑林区书院门步行街56号
Zuichang’an (South Gate Branch）: 56 Shuyuanmen Pedestrian Street, Beilin District.
电话 Tel: (+86) 029 8728 1828.
甜水井教堂
Tianshuijing Catholic Church
这座至今仍活跃的教堂可以追溯到300年前，是西安世界主义历史的见证。这座建筑融合了西方和中国的建筑风格，包括以陕西省特有的美丽风格绘制的壁画。守卫通常很乐意让人们在闲暇时探索，或者如果你星期天在城里，看看你是否可以加入这一项活动。
This still-active church dates back 300 years, a testament to Xi’an’s cosmopolitan history. The building is an appealing blend of western and Chinese architecture including murals painted in a beautiful style specific to Shaanxi Province. The watchman is usually happy to let people explore at leisure, or if you are in town on a Sunday see if you can join a service.
甜水井教堂: 莲湖区水井街61号
Tianshuijing Church: 61 Tianshuijing Street, Lianhu District.
